Chez Panisse Fruit

Starred review from April 1, 2002
The eighth Chez Panisse cookbook, which features sweet and savory dishes that use fruit, follows what has become acclaimed chef Alice Waters's patented style: a mix of rustic dishes, many exhibiting Italian and French influence, that highlight the best possible produce. Recipes are organized by fruit, and each chapter begins with a mini-essay on varieties and growing conditions, and often sounds the biodiversity alarm, as when Waters opines, "How sad, then, that well over 90 percent of the apples sold in this country belong to one of only fifteen of those seven thousand varieties." Desserts showcase flavors that may be slightly unfamiliar, either because they use unusual varieties (Caramelized Red Banana Tartlets) or different versions of a common fruit, as with Fig Cookies that are a haute substitute for Fig Newtons and use fresh figs rather than dried. Savory dishes such as Middle Eastern–Style Lamb Stew with Dried Apricots and a tasty assembly of spices skew more traditional. Some of the most intriguing recipes are the simplest, such as Pickled Cherries and Tea-Poached Prunes. At times, Waters's specificity can be exasperating. Will Crêpes Suzette with Pixie Tangerine Sherbet be just as good if the sherbet is made with some other variety of tangerine? Still, it's hard to find fault with a book wide-ranging and inventive enough to comfortably encompass Judy's Deep-Fried Lemon and Artichokes, Spring Fruit Compote with Kiwifruit Sherbet and Coconut Meringue, and a tart Vin de Pamplemousse apéritif. (May)Forecast:As always, Waters's combination of serious writing and creative recipes will have cooks heading to the kitchen, and cookbook buyers heading to the stores. This book sticks to the tried-and-true Chez Panisse formula, which shows no signs of wearing out.

Starred review from April 15, 2002
The companion to Chez Panisse Vegetables, this is another wonderful book from Waters and crew (Alan Tangren, now the pastry chef, was the restaurant's "forager" for many years, responsible for buying produce and other ingredients from local purveyors and growers). It is invaluable both as a reference and a cookbook and features unsually lyrical writing. The fruits are organized alphabetically, and each entry provides information on seasons, buying, storing, preparing, and different varieties. There are savory recipes as well as desserts, from Spit-Roasted Pork with Apple Marmalade and Green Apple Sherbet to Grilled Duck Breast with Seville Orange Sauce and Blood Orange Tartlets to Grilled Quail with Pomegranates and Pomegranate Granita. The attractive, understated design and lovely full-color linocuts add to the book's appeal. Essential.

Copyright 2002 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

July 1, 2002
\deflang1033\pard\plain\f3\fs24 Summer's approach means that trees and bushes will soon sprout with all manner of fruits and berries. That not a one of these gifts goes to waste is a goal of Waters' \plain\f3\fs24" Chez\plain\f3\fs24 \plain\f3\fs24" Panisse Fruit\plain\f3\fs24 . The doyenne of California cuisine has long recognized the key role of fruits in her quest for the best, freshest foods. Here she presents a listing of common and uncommon fruits that have passed through her restaurant's kitchen. Recipes accompany a description of each fruit's cultivation and culinary uses. Figs, cherries, grapes, lemons, raspberries, all turn into tantalizing dishes, both sweet and savory. Grapefruit and wine combine for a bracing aperitif. Pomegranates make a great salad with arugula and hazelnuts. This is a reliable and comprehensive book that belongs in every cookery reference collection. (Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2002, American Library Association.)